Most salad dressings fail in one of two ways. They are either sharp enough to make you wince, or so thin and oily that they slide straight off the leaves and pool sadly at the bottom of the bowl. Maple syrup solves the second problem beautifully and softens the first. It is not just sugar dissolved in water; good maple syrup brings a rounded, faintly woody sweetness with a whisper of caramel, and that flavour has a natural affinity with mustard and vinegar.
There is also a practical advantage for home cooks in Britain. Where caster sugar can feel gritty in a cold dressing, maple syrup dissolves instantly and stays dissolved. A teaspoon or two is often all it takes to bring a harsh vinegar into balance, which means you can use robust, characterful vinegars — cider, sherry, red wine — without dreading them. If you keep one jar of dressing in the fridge for the week ahead, make it this one.
Think of a vinaigrette as three jobs: fat for body and mouthfeel, acid for lift, and something sweet to keep the acid in check. Mustard does a fourth job — it is an emulsifier, helping the oil and vinegar hold together rather than separating within seconds.
My standard batch, which dresses a generous salad for four:
That is roughly a 4:1 oil-to-acid ratio with sweetness at about half the volume of the acid. It is a starting point, not a rule. Taste with a lettuce leaf, not a teaspoon: dressing always seems sharper on its own than it does on food. If your leaves are bitter — chicory, radicchio, watercress — nudge the maple up. If you are dressing sweet roasted carrots or beetroot, pull it back.
The classic method is a whisk and a bowl. Put the mustard, maple syrup, vinegar, salt and pepper in first, whisk to a smooth paste, then add the oil in a thin, steady trickle while whisking constantly. You are building an emulsion, and patience here pays off: the dressing turns glossy, pale and slightly thickened, and it will cling to leaves instead of running off them.
The shortcut is a jam jar. Combine everything, screw the lid on tightly and shake hard for fifteen seconds. It will separate after a few hours in the fridge, and that is fine — just shake again before pouring. Many cooks actually prefer this looser texture for grain bowls and roasted vegetables.
The third option is a small food processor or stick blender, which produces the thickest, most stable emulsion. This is worth doing if you are adding extras: a clove of garlic, a few sprigs of thyme, or a tablespoon of tahini, which makes the dressing creamier and slightly nutty. Do not blend fresh soft herbs in unless you want a green dressing; stir chopped parsley, chives or dill in by hand at the end.
Once the formula is in your head, the variations write themselves.
This dressing is far more versatile than its name suggests. Toss it through warm new potatoes while they are still steaming, so they drink it up. Spoon it over roasted squash, parsnips or cauliflower in the last few minutes of cooking, then return the tray to the oven briefly to glaze. It is excellent drizzled over a grain bowl of pearl barley, lentils or quinoa with something crunchy and something green alongside.
It also works as a marinade. Brush it over chicken thighs or halloumi before griddling, or use it to baste grilled aubergine and courgette. Because the maple caramelises quickly, keep the heat moderate and watch closely — the line between glazed and burnt is a short one.
Keep the dressing in a clean jar with a tight lid in the fridge for up to two weeks. It will thicken and set solid when cold if you have used a lot of olive oil, so stand the jar in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes, or simply let it sit on the worktop while you assemble the salad. Shake well before each use.
Buy maple syrup in glass where you can, and store it in the fridge once opened to keep the flavour fresh. A darker grade is not inferior — it is simply more intensely flavoured, which is exactly what you want when it has to hold its own against mustard and vinegar. Start with the base recipe, taste as you go, and adjust towards what is on your plate. That is the whole art of a good dressing.
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.
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Soldman Kell
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.