There is something quietly brilliant about a tin of maple syrup in a British kitchen in January. It is not just for pancakes, and it is certainly not just for Americans. Used with a bit of restraint, maple brings a rounded, almost toffee-like sweetness to stews, roasts and puddings, and it pairs beautifully with the things we already cook when the nights draw in: root vegetables, barley, dark greens, apples and pears.
Maple syrup is not simply sugar in liquid form. Good dark or amber maple has notes of vanilla, caramel and a faint smokiness, which means it can do two jobs at once — sweeten and season. A spoonful stirred into a braise deepens the gravy without making it cloying. Drizzled over roasted carrots, it encourages them to caramelise at the edges.
It also behaves predictably in the pan. Unlike honey, which can catch and turn bitter quickly, maple is forgiving over a moderate heat. That makes it a reliable choice for weeknights, when you want dinner on the table without hovering over the hob.
Buy the darker grades for cooking. They are less expensive than the delicate light syrup and their flavour survives the oven. A 250ml bottle will see you through a good month of winter cooking.
This is the sort of dish that fills the house with warmth before anyone has even sat down. You need a heavy casserole with a lid.
Toss the beef in the seasoned flour and brown it hard in a little oil, in batches, so it does not steam. Set aside. Soften the onions in the same pan, then return the meat with everything else. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook at 150°C for two and a half hours, or on the lowest hob setting.
The maple and mustard balance each other exactly: sweet, sharp, faintly hot. Skim any fat, taste for salt, and serve with mash and buttered greens. It reheats beautifully, so make it on Sunday and eat it on Tuesday.
Roast vegetables are the easiest place to start with maple, because there is nothing to measure carefully. Heat the oven to 200°C.
Cut everything to roughly the same size so it cooks evenly. Toss with the oil, thyme and seasoning, but hold back the maple for now. Roast for 30 minutes, then drizzle over the syrup, turn everything with a spatula, and give it another 15 to 20 minutes.
Adding the maple late is the trick. Too early and the sugars burn before the vegetables are tender; added at the halfway point, they glaze and brown to a sticky shine. A squeeze of lemon at the end stops it all becoming too sweet.
Cold evenings deserve a pudding, but nobody wants to make pastry on a Tuesday. Baked apples take five minutes to assemble.
Core four large Bramley or Cox apples and sit them in a buttered dish. Mix 60g porridge oats, 40g soft brown sugar, 50g cold butter rubbed in, a handful of raisins and a pinch of cinnamon. Pack this into the hollows, then pour 3 tbsp maple syrup over the tops.
Add a splash of water to the dish, cover with foil, and bake at 180°C for 25 minutes. Uncover and bake for a final 15 minutes until the skins are wrinkled and the filling is golden. Serve with cold cream or custard. The maple sinks down into the fruit and turns the juices in the dish into a thin, dark syrup worth spooning over every portion.
Maple is often filed under "natural sweeteners" alongside honey, agave and date syrup. It is less processed than white sugar and carries trace minerals, but it is still sugar, and it should be treated as a treat rather than a health food. The honest position is that it is a swap, not a free pass.
Where maple genuinely earns its place is in porridge, yoghurt with toasted nuts, salad dressings with mustard and cider vinegar, and glazes for roast pork, ham or salmon. In each case, a little goes a long way.
Keep a bottle of dark maple beside the mustard and the soy sauce, and you have the beginnings of dozens of quick suppers. A tray of roasted roots, a pot of barley cooked in stock with a spoonful of maple stirred through, a pan of sausages glazed with maple and wholegrain mustard — none of it takes much effort, and all of it tastes as though it does.
That, really, is the appeal. British winter cooking is at its best when it is unfussy and generous, and maple fits that mood perfectly: warm, deep and just sweet enough to make a grey Tuesday feel like something worth sitting down for.
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.
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Soldman Kell
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.