There is a moment each October when the British kitchen turns amber. The squash pile at the greengrocer swells, the apple tree finally gives in, and the first properly cold evening makes you think about puddings again. Maple syrup is the sweetener that suits this season best. It carries a warm, caramelised note that flatters roasted roots and baked fruit alike, and it behaves differently from caster sugar in the tin — glazes turn glossy, puddings take on a soft, almost fudgy crumb, and everything smells faintly of bonfires.
Most supermarkets now stock more than one grade, and the label matters more than the price. Golden syrup is pale and delicate, best poured over porridge or yoghurt where you want sweetness without a heavy flavour. Amber is the all-rounder — rich, buttery, and the one to reach for in crumbles, glazes and everyday baking. Dark and Very Dark syrups taste of toffee and molasses and will happily stand up to ginger, cocoa and roasted squash.
Keep it in a cool cupboard rather than the fridge; cold syrup crystallises at the bottom of the bottle and pours like glue. Opened syrup keeps for months. If a faint bloom appears on the surface, skim it away and bring the syrup briefly to the boil.
This is the easiest conversion you will ever make. Cut 600g of carrots and parsnips into fat batons, toss with two tablespoons of olive oil, two tablespoons of amber maple syrup, a good pinch of sea salt and a few thyme sprigs, then roast at 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6) for 35 to 40 minutes, turning once. The edges catch and caramelise beautifully. Maple browns faster than honey, so start watching from the 25-minute mark.
The same trick transforms chipolatas: brush them with a mixture of one tablespoon of maple syrup and one teaspoon of English mustard before their final ten minutes in the oven. They come out burnished and sticky, and children who claim not to like mustard never notice it.
Butternut and Crown Prince are the two worth carrying home. Halve one lengthways, scoop out the seeds, and sit the halves cut-side up in a roasting tin. Put a knob of butter, a tablespoon of dark maple syrup and a couple of sage leaves in each cavity, season, and roast at 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6) for 45 to 55 minutes until a knife slides in with no resistance. Scatter toasted walnuts over for the last eight minutes.
Any leftovers make a superb soup. Scoop the flesh into a pan with 700ml of vegetable stock, simmer for ten minutes, then blitz until smooth. Finish with a swirl of crème fraîche, a drizzle of maple and a grating of nutmeg. Blue cheese crumbled over the top turns it into a proper supper.
For a crumble that feeds six, peel and slice 800g of Bramley apples, then tumble them into a dish with 200g of blackberries, two tablespoons of maple syrup, a teaspoon of ground cinnamon and a tablespoon of cornflour to thicken the juices. Rub 150g of plain flour with 75g of cold butter until it resembles breadcrumbs, then stir through 50g of porridge oats, 40g of demerara and a pinch of salt. Bake at 190°C (170°C fan, gas 5) for 35 to 40 minutes.
Poached pears are even simpler and quietly impressive. Stand four firm Conference pears in a pan just large enough to hold them, add 500ml of water, 100ml of maple syrup, a split vanilla pod, two star anise and a strip of lemon peel. Simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes, then leave them to cool in the syrup, where they will deepen in colour. Serve with thick yoghurt or clotted cream.
An upside-down maple and pear sponge is the sort of pudding that empties the dish. Butter a 1.2-litre pudding basin generously, pour in four tablespoons of maple syrup and two of golden syrup, then lay sliced pear over the base. Beat 175g of soft butter with 175g of caster sugar, add three eggs one at a time, then fold in 175g of self-raising flour with a teaspoon of ground ginger. Spoon over the pears, cover with pleated baking paper and foil, and steam for an hour and a half. Turn out onto a warm plate and serve with custard.
For something gentler, bake a rice pudding: 100g of pudding rice, 700ml of whole milk, 200ml of double cream and three tablespoons of maple syrup in a buttered dish at 150°C (130°C fan, gas 2) for an hour and a half, stirring after 45 minutes. Spoon another tablespoon of maple over the top for the final 20 minutes — late enough that it glazes rather than burns, and early enough that it forms a thin, crackling crust.
Maple is a natural sweetener, but it is still a sugar, so treat it as one and enjoy it in the same measured way. These rules of thumb will keep your bakes working:
Cakes will be a shade softer and more moist than usual, which is no bad thing in autumn. Start with the crumble and the roast tin, and by the time the clocks change you will be reaching for the bottle without thinking about it.
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.
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Soldman Kell
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.